The strongest memories of Jean Claude
Jitrois’ childhood are watching the belles élégantes, promenading in their new look finery on the arms of their gentlemen, making their way to the l’Archevêche theatre in Aix-en-Provence. Appearing
as visions of elegance, their forms were expertly constructed with corsetry and
tight, restricting ensembles of wool and silk. Jean Claude
perceived these women to be like beautiful caged birds; trapped in their own
corsetry, and dreamed one day of liberating them.
In this Jitrois collection for
Autumn/Winter 2013-14, this dream can at last be fully realized. In approaching
the aesthetics of the 1950s decade from two opposing directions - the salon and
the street - and in marrying the couture silhouette with that of motorcycle
rebel clubs, stretch leather becomes an instrument of liberation for the 1950s woman.
The good girl goes bad, subverting the ultra-feminine look of graphic lines and
crafted draping by reconstructing it in leather, feather and fur as an exercise
in pure texture.
Feathers are used both to form delicate
yet defined trims - severe to the eye and soft to the touch - and carry through
the collection in a quilted baroque motif on sheer silk and structured
knitwear. Elements which trace their origins from biker rebel culture are re-imagined:
collar studs become crystals; tough leather lacing inspires the ergonomic crochet
on skinny cigarette pants, and long leather fringes in the skirts of evening
gowns illustrate the ultimate vision of aesthetic liberation. The Jitrois woman
claims the power to command her future as her own. She triumphs over taboos, whilst
endeavoring to remain inimitably, timelessly, exceptionally elegant.
